![]() I made a wooden ramp so that I could slide the old engine out into the cabin to fettle the beds, also clean, paint and re-run fuel lines and exhaust. Lots of measuring to be sure it would fit, then check measurements several times. I had to raise the engine beds by 28mm and drill and tap new holes for the feet. The engineer counselled that I could be buying someone else's trouble.īeta were very helpful with advice and new lump delivered in 2 weeks. I considered buying a secondhand "refurbished" engine but the only available one was in Dorset and on questioning the seller it appeared the refurbishment was a steam clean and a coat of paint, then see if it starts. Also stupidly replaced lots of stuff that needed doing but didn't affect the running Diagnosis from the boatyard engineer was a corroded cylinder head, new one over £1500 plus valves, gaskets etc. The Yanmar developed problems as soon as we launched and I wasted time and money doing injectors, head gasket and valves. I replaced a Yanmar 2GM with a new Beta 20 this year while afloat. While the Bukh was a good engine in its day, they are mostly seawater cooled and many that are for sale have been removed from boats because they are getting uneconomic to run. You have to know what you are doing to buy one of these. Not all can be used directly in yachts as they are sometimes keel cooled and lack electrics. Volvos are not used in lifeboats, they are usually Bukh or Yanmar. I have done two engines swaps, first from a Stuart Turner to a Yanmar 1GM, where I had to do all that I listed above, and then from the 1GM to a Nanni 14, which was an easy swap as the footprint is almost identical and only mods to cooling, controls and exhaust required. Much better to save up and buy a fully functioning boat with modern engine, good sails etc unless you have loads of time and an open ended cheque book. Boats like you are looking at are essentially worthless, which is why asking prices are so low. ![]() The difference in price between a Centaur with a modern engine and one with an MD11 or MD2 is usually far less than this, and one with a modern engine is more likely to be in better condition overall. So, difficult to do it, even with a used engine for less than £4k, and more likely nearer £5k. The cost of all this is likely to be around £1500. The engine bearers will need to be modified as the mount footprint of the new engine will be different. so, new exhaust, fuel system, electrics, controls, stern gear including prop. However the better ones do represent a saving of around 40-50% from new, but of course you have to accept the spec they are and you don't get a manufacturers warranty.Īs for the process of fitting the new engine, it is a DIY job, but you will find if you are replacing an old Volvo, everything in the driveline has to be replaced, either because it does not fit the new engine, or, like the old engine is worn out. Some of the engines that Marine Enterprises offer are indeed worth looking at, but many are not current models and this is reflected in the price. Do it once and do it right.Ĭlick to expand.Volvos are not used in lifeboats, they are usually Bukh or Yanmar. This may be mandated to preserve the warranty.Ībove all, think about the job and the options very thoroughly in advance. Once installed, it's wise to get a professional to check and sign off the installation. At a cost of around £150, this can be money well-spent. Beta (and maybe others) will supply custom feet to allow their engines to fit existing bearers. Indeed this might ultimately sway the choice of new engine type. It's worth being meticulous in measuring up the existing set-up and calculating the new one. Often the biggest jobs is revising or replacing the engine bearers. Actually slotting the engine in takes no time at all. This, plus engine bearers, is usually the most time-consuming aspect of the job. (For lighter engines you may be able to manage with the boom.) Overall, re-engining is a priceless opportunity to re-assess aspects such as fuel, exhaust and drive shaft systems and revise as necessary. Some elements you'd need help with - hiring a HIAB to crane out the old and drop in the new, for instance. For anyone wary of of lectrickery, much of the wiring is effectively plug-and-play, except for the high-amperage bits. Replacing an engine shouldn't be beyond anyone with reasonable practical skills. Yes, Kelpie, there's plenty of hands-on experience on line, such as this:
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